What to Look For When Buying a New or Used Boat
By Steve Jones

Considering a Boat Purchase
Buying a boat can be easy if you know exactly what you are after, but it can also be a confusing and time-consuming process if you are uncertain about anything. Have patience, and take your time. Finding the right deal and value is tough, even in a slower market, and you really do want to know and understand exactly what you are getting for your hard-earned dollar. Fear not! The more you look around, the more savvy you will become. In later years, by the time you have upgraded a couple of times into the top tier or so of boats, you will know exactly what you want and what you like and dislike, and it becomes a very simple task - I even have a cheat sheet below. Keep things in perspective though; this article is just one opinion on buying a boat, and you will want to do your own research and come up with your own ideas and thoughts before making that commitment. Overall, it comes down to value, your personal preference, and what dealer service you can expect. Hopefully this article will be useful to you in your search. Let us know by email at moreinfo (the at symbol) milehighwakeboarding.com if this was helpful or not. So…where do you start to look? What’s the process?

Should You Buy New or Used?
Both new and used boats have their pros and cons, and it’s not for anyone to say what is best for you or your situation. I am right on the fence with this one. Buying new is great if you can get the right deal. It smells new, looks new, and is new. Everything, and I mean absolutely everything, is covered under warranty and that’s a refreshing feeling. Nowadays, you can custom-order a boat to your exact liking and load it up with everything you have always wanted; you can even build and see pictures of it on the various websites prior to ordering. There is something nice to be said for picking the exact colors, options, and accessories. Building a boat to your exact specifications is very exciting and can be extremely rewarding.

I have enjoyed those days of picking things out to the very last detail, but knowing that many new boats will lose 10-20% in value (or more) the first year, I am also a person of value and practicality. I have a 1999 Jeep Cherokee that’s having a 12th birthday in May of 2011, so I don’t feel the need to always have to have the latest and greatest. Sure the transmission components (notorious on Jeeps) have broken down every 3 or so years, and every year there is something newer and better that comes out that I take a casual peek at; but overall, I just can’t seem to justify buying something new when the “new” isn’t really that much better. I ordered my ride just the way I wanted and am just fine with it 12 years and 190k or so miles later. I’ve done a lot of preventative maintenance, the engine is super strong, and it’s in nearly perfect condition (knock on wood). I have always added the cool new things like a rear backup camera and satellite radio, but overall it’s still a great tow and snow vehicle that serves it purpose well. I think if it were not for our wakeboard students having to ride the absolute newest and most popular boats each season, I would have kept a few of our former boats indefinitely. Some I grew quite attached to and even miss.

So to wrap up, new means highly customized and a guaranteed warranty, and simply said, nothing beats new if it’s in the budget. Used is sometimes a guessing game but can be a better value in many cases. There is not a fixed rule because every single boat is different, but used may prevail if the warranty is right. Bottom line, get everything in writing and work the best deal you can.

What Kind of Boat is Best for You
(Skip this section if you already have an idea of what type of boat you want.) There are several great articles out there that can help you narrow down the type of boat that is best for you - and also what to look for to help you narrow down and make this decision. So I am not cutting and pasting good information or repeating others, I have listed a few good links below this paragraph. Keep in mind, that a typical situation is a mom and dad that water-ski, and kids that wakeboard and wakesurf. For this reason, cross-over boats are a big push for many manufacturers. While your kids may not be going pro anytime soon, I have noticed that many of these 40-50k boat purchases get traded in later on for wakeboard-specific boats. (The sport grows by leaps and bounds each year and as you try wakeboarding and wakesurfing, you may get hooked.) Get what you want and need but this is always a point to consider if you don’t want to have to upgrade or change out later on.

Once you have decided your monthly budget (and the actual purchase price), how you will use the boat, where you will use it, and who you will typically have with you, you can narrow down the actual boats you want to look at and move to the next section. For now, bookmark this page and come back later to continue on in your search.

Here are some good links we found on what kind of boat may work for you and what to look for in a new or used boat:
http://www.wakeboardingmag.com/virtual_boats.jsp (Virtual Test Drives)
http://www.wakeworld.com/news/feature/how-to-buy-a-wakeboard-boat.html
http://www.onlyinboards.com/Buying-a-ski-boat/
http://www.bassboatcentral.com/buyingusedboat.htm
http://www.dbw.ca.gov/Pubs/Usedboat/INDEX.HTM
http://waterski.about.com/od/boats/a/buyused_boat.htm

Where to Start Looking
So now that you have a general idea of what boat you want and what your budget may be, the internet is a great place to start. You can do research from the privacy of your own home and narrow down your search without dealing with smooth talkers and sales people you will eventually have to weed through. This will give you plenty of opportunity to compare models, options, and prices without listening to all of the sales pitches on why a particular boat is better than another. (By the way, never take advice from someone that has not owned a boat, or at the very least ridden behind the one you are looking at. You’ll find that everyone has an opinion but few are the ones worth listening to.)

Among the many sites on the internet to look for boats are:
www.onlyinboards.com
www.boattrader.com
www.craigslist.org
www.usedboats.com
www.boats.com
Any site local to your community or network of dealers.  

What to Look For In Your Search
OK, so once you have it narrowed down to 1 or 2 models and manufacturers, here are some additional points to consider:

Was the boat you are looking at properly maintained and cared for?
What other repairs were done?
Was the boat you are looking at a “Promo” or "Demo" boat?
Is the boat still under warranty?
Will the seller provide a written guarantee in addition to any manufacture warranty? 
Is the seller reputable? Do they have references they will provide?
What does the boat include or not include for the price?
Resale value – What brands will be easier to resell?

Once you have reviewed these links just above, you are well on your way to being a more educated buyer and new owner. There can always be more to purchasing a boat and if you happen to be looking in the Denver area, I or someone on my staff would be happy to evaluate a boat or dealer for you, and tell you the straight scoop, just be sure to pay it forward to someone else in the future.

Good luck in your search.

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Was the boat you are looking at properly maintained and cared for?
This is the longest topic but by far the most important. If the boat is brand new, move on to the next topic. If not, request a copy of all the maintenance logs, service records, and dealer records and inspect them thoroughly. Even if the seller is local, scanned copies and email are great tools for speeding up this screening process. No records? My recommendation is, “no deal”, period. Assuming they have service records, do they have the originals in a 3 ring binder or folder, in some kind of logical order, or are they loosely thrown together in a heap? Look for gaps or any irregularities in the paperwork, and really pay attention to service dates and/or hours recorded for routine maintenance. This is always a good indication of how serious the seller is/was about caring for the boat.

When you inspect the service records, don’t worry about the hours on the boat too much. Instead pay really close attention to the *engine break-in notes; the **frequency of oil changes; and ***whether or not they changed other transmission fluids, filters, and impellers, if at all. There are other routine items to consider, but simply said, if these basic, well-known maintenance items were not performed, it’s a safe bet that the boat was not cared for in other areas as well. If these items were not done, I personally wouldn’t take the chance and would move on immediately in my search. Hours are a irrelevant if the boat was not cared for.

*Some dealers will argue that a break-in period of 10 hours isn’t needed anymore on the new boats, but I would counter-argue that it is never a bad idea, and would always recommend it regardless of the speech they give you. I’ve been around long enough to see and hear differently - but don’t take my word for it. My thoughts are to avoid the issue all together and just do it - why risk it in the first place?

**Oil and oil filter changes are recommended at intervals of 50 hours. Give or take 5-10 hours (a day of use) this should be pretty consistent. I really like to use synthetic oils and higher quality filters. Your dealer will most likely stock the cheapest junk they can buy and resell to you - but not always, some do carry quality oil and filters. Regardless, ask about, buy, and use the good stuff.

***All transmission fluids, filters, and impellers changes are recommended at intervals of 100 hours. Give or take 5-10 hours (a day of use) this should be pretty consistent. Some spark plugs would be included in this same hour interval, but many of the new ones are super-long life, and will last up to 600 or 700 hours. (Ask someone you trust for specifics.) These are not cheap and are often neglected. Pay attention to the paperwork.

After reviewing all of the service records, ask yourself the following questions before you get 2nd opinions and dig further into the boat:
Did they break in the engine at all, or did they just start using the boat?
Did they do all (or any) of the preventative and routine maintenance on time as required?
Did they skip any items that are expensive such as certain filters and impellers?
Did they take service notes?
Will they provide the names and contact information for those that have worked on the boat, such as any mechanics, service personnel, or other person(s). (Many of these people will be professional dealers and mechanics and will not stake their reputation on a lemon boat or one that wasn’t properly cared for, so it’s a good bet you are getting a straight scoop. Still, always take raving reviews with a grain of salt and skepticism.
In general, do you feel that they took care of the engine and mechanical systems?

If the answers are all positive then the chances are, it’s a boat worth checking out in greater detail and making an appointment to inspect the boat itself.

Moving past the engine and mechanical systems on the boat, (which you will investigate in detail before a purchase) look for obvious signs of wear or abuse on the seats, vinyl, dashboard, and other parts of the boat itself. It’s not a bad idea to inspect every inch of the boat and trailer, inside and out, until you are satisfied you have noted everything little thing you would or could be concerned about. (Don’t be ashamed to write it all down or take pictures/videotape; you will forget things.) Lift all the seats cushions, compartments, and covers, and do a thorough inspection in and around the boat. Look at the gelcoat in various places to check for damage, scratches, or other bumps or bruises. Look for rust, mold, stains, tears, spills, scratches, and other signs of neglect in the most obvious places you can think of, but also look deeper into those hard to clean and reach places. Take your time to scan the boat really closely for anything you may be concerned about because these are the items you can inspect yourself, without paying a mechanic.

If the buyer is long-distance, it’s not always a big deal, (I have sold nearly every one of my boats to someone 1000 or more miles away) but do request high-resolution pictures and/or a video that will allow you to inspect for obvious wear, damage, and other signs of neglect, and get the warranty and/or guarantee in writing before you arrange a delivery. The more pictures they can provide (or you can take) upfront, the better off you are.

Finally, if possible, when you really narrow down the search to 1-3 total boats, test drive the boats, and/or ride behind them. At the very least, make an arrangement with a local mechanic or dealership you trust to look the boat over and/or test drive it. However, don’t expect to be able to do this without some sort of non-refundable deposit of at least $100-$200 or so. You can’t expect any seller to spend an hour or more on the lake with you for free without some sort of commitment on your part. They could spend the whole season giving free rides to random people. In the long run, this is a miniscule cost when compared to the cost of a major repair so if you are a serious buyer, it is a necessary step. Regardless of any testing, driving, or riding, the bottom line when it comes to what the seller is stating is to get it all in writing to protect your own interests. You are not friends with the seller, nor should you trust everything they say. Your job is to get the best value and boat you can for the money you intend to spend. Salesman and people in general will say whatever you want to hear to get your business, but when things are put in writing it keeps most people on the up and up. Do this due diligence and you will always come out on top.

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What other repairs were done?
As far as non-routine or warranty repairs, it’s not a big deal if something was repaired or replaced, but do pay attention to what these items were and ensure your seller is honest. Major items such as engines, transmissions, gelcoat cracking, prop/shaft alignment, or other items of interest can be tell-tale signs of an accident or poor maintenance - and the seller should be upfront about the details. (However, if these items are repeated often in paperwork, most likely the owner was doing their part and it is a sign of a poor dealer or service center.) Always ask about these items in great detail and inspect anything you are concerned about as much as you need to. Items such as a tear in a seat, a ding or scratch in the gelcoat, or some other sort of “oops” do happen from time to time, and are no big deal because they are easily fixed, but the seller should be honest and forthright about what has happened.  If they indeed took care of the boat, they will have already fixed the issue(s), noted them in the records, and moved on.

Ask outright if the boat was ever damaged, wrecked, or even touched against the dock or ground, and get a written statement and guarantee to back that statement up. It’s not always easy to tell what the history is on a boat or trailer, but even the smallest of things can cause major issues later on, so be aggressive with your questioning. A really good, and often overlooked thing to do, is to run your thumb and forefinger along the blades of the propeller and feel for even the slightest chip or ding (not the pattern in the prop). Also do this with the rudder and the middle fins underneath the boat, because these are typically the lowest points on most boats, and are easily forgotten. If there is anything noticeable in these places, and it is not in the records, it could be a tell-tale sign that they didn’t properly care for the boat, or they are not an experienced boat owner, or worse, there was a grounding or accident they are not disclosing.

Records always give you a way to read between the lines on service history so I would say again; no records, no deal. A good boat owner keeps records. A sloppy or unconcerned boat owner, will not be able to produce orderly documentation for the boat.

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Was the boat you are looking at a “Promo” or “Demo” boat?
This seems like a simple question but it’s a bigger deal that you might imagine. If you find a deal that seems too good to be true, it probably is. The old saying is true on many occasions, and you really do get what you pay for. Promo boats will typically be 10% to as much as 30% less than all other boats of a similar year, model, and set of options. You will notice these boats when you are shopping around because they will stand out in price and will instantly peak your interest.

Promo boats are typically given to, or are loaned to various professional riders, industry sales reps, promo reps, and ski-schools each year. At the end of the season, the individual returns their current boat to the local dealer or manufacturer in exchange for a new model. This is not bad in itself but more often than not, if something is completely free - or simply not earned or purchased, it’s often neglected or taken for granted. When a boat, is paid for or purchased, it’s a much better bet that things were properly cared for.

Various dealers will also have “Demo” boats that they use for local events, contests, customer demos, and their staff. Pay close attention to the actual hours on these demo boats, especially if you are buying what you think is new. Never trust that they broke it in because rarely, if ever, do they take the time to do so. If you are getting an actual new boat, it should never have more than 1 hour on it.

Most Promo and Demo boats will have a warranty but regardless, inspect these boats thoroughly, especially if the dealer can’t or won’t tell you who the owner was or how and where it was used. Obvious signs of neglect will be the condition of the engine and vinyl. I have seen good and bad Promo boat owners, and some take great pride in their ride, and some do not. Many Promo boats are very lightly used, are well-maintained, and show that they have been cared for, and many of these can be the very best deal you can find anywhere. Other Promo boats are not cared for, and can be the worst batch of mess you could possibly buy, at any price. Don’t fall for the “well, it’s still under warranty” line. Again, no service records, no deal. Take your time on this special group of boats and really dig into the history of the boat. They are tempting because of the price but it can be really, really good or really, really bad.

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Is the boat still under warranty?
If you are not buying new, and your potential new ride is not under warranty, take extra special care when making a decision. If something goes wrong, it’s all on you unless you have some sort of written guarantee.

If it’s under warranty, ask to see a copy of the warranty to verify seller statements of exactly what is and is not covered. It’s also never a bad idea to ask for or buy an extended warranty. Of the 13 or so boats I’ve owned to date, I never owned a boat long enough to use an extended warranty, and as long as you care for the boat, it’s a safe bet you won’t ever need it; but for the peace of mind and resale value, it’s never, ever a bad idea.

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Will the seller provide a written guarantee in addition to any manufacture warranty? 
If the seller is willing to give you a written guarantee, good for at least 90 days, it is a pretty good indication that they are confident that the boat is going to work out for you. If not, simply move along in your search. The more you have in writing, the better.

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Is the seller reputable? Do they have references they will provide?
If you get serious in your search and have your choices narrowed down to 1-3 boats, the next step can be more due diligence, and obtaining references - and don’t just take the sellers word for it. Do an internet search for the buyer and/or their dealership and see what kind of feedback and information you can find about them. Always check the BBB.

Why ask for references? Why not, I say. If they don’t have any customer references to provide, ask for a couple of business or personal references. If the deal is on the up and up, it shouldn’t be a problem for any individual or business to provide some additional references. No references, no deal.

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What does the boat include or not include for the price?
Not all brand x, model x, and year x boats are the same. Look closely when you are comparing boats. What is included with the price? What options does the boat have? What would you want or need to add or change if you purchased the boat? Does the price include delivery to you (if coming from out of your area)? Is the seller willing to spend time with you on the boat?

Here is a list of popular boat options and after-market add-on’s you may want to have on your new ride. Ensure you are comparing apples to apples.

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Resale value and what brands will be easier to resell?
Assuming that this won’t be the last boat you will buy, it’s a good idea to think ahead about resale.

Always perform routine and preventative maintenance as required. If you can’t do this yourself, find a reputable shop or mechanic that you trust. Overkill is better than worrying about a break down mid season that can keep you off the water. This also affects your resale value. Do pay attention to exactly who works on your boat at the dealership. Some hire teenagers to work on your 100k ride so it’s worth noting who climbs into your ride to work on it, and ensuring only the senior guys touch it.

Always keep records and document every single thing that has ever been serviced or repaired. Do this as you perform each service and repair. Not only is this required for some warranty’s, it never a bad idea for the resale value, and as stated above, any savvy buyer will ask for this information upfront. Keep everything in a 3 ring binder or other similar folder in order of date. Take note of what was done and who did the work. Don’t be ashamed of a scratch, ding, or accident. Better to make the new buyer aware of everything so it doesn’t come back to be a problem for you later. Honesty is absolutely the only policy. You will sleep better and so will the new buyer if you have built a reputation of being a straight-shooter.

I really hate to name specific brands because they all have their place in the world of boating. I obviously have my favorites as does everyone, and some are genuinely better than others, and some dealers are exceptionally better than others. Depending on your needs, you may want to consider brands that have exceptional marketing power, a good reputation, a great overall value, and proven company longevity, warranty’s, and service departments to back up their products. In addition, the actual dealers in your area may determine the best brand to own. For the world of wakeboarding and its related watersports, I would consider the following brands (alphabetically so as not to state bias) when evaluating a new purchase and later resale value: Correct Craft, Centurion, Epic, Malibu, MB, MasterCraft, Sanger, Supra, Tige. There are other brands that may fit your purposes but these are the companies that I would personally consider first when making a purchase in the world of wakeboarding. Do conduct your research and due diligence if you plan to resell later, some are better than others.

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Convenient Options You May Want For Your Boat
(This is also a good cheat sheet when shopping around. I have also included the websites for after-market items that are not normally included with a boat.)

• Wakeboard Tower / Wakeboard Racks
• Bow Docking Lights and/or Tower Lights
• ‘Perfect Pass’ or Zero Off (cruise control)
• Internal Ballast Tanks (plus additional ballast if you are an advanced rider)
• 1 Touch or Other Computer Operated Ballast and Boat Settings
• Heater
• Shower
• Air Temp and Water Temp Gauges
• Depth Gauge / Depth Finder
• Bimini Top / Sun Shade
• Built-in Drinks Cooler
• ‘Newt Juice’ Sprayer Hose & Reservoir (binding lube) www.newtjuice.com 
• ‘Gator Grip’ Traction (gunwales, step areas, and/or trailer) www.wakejunky.com
• Speaker, Light, & Board Rack Covers (bugs/travel) www.speakersox.com  
• Seat Covers (protect your vinyl) - Primal Seat Covers www.primalmp.com
• Wind Block (snap down cover or stowable bow insert)
• Additional Carpet Inserts and/or Removable Carpet
• Enclosed Cabin Floor (makes for easy cleaning)
• Snap Down Covers (towing, rain - spendy extra, but nice to have)
• Popup Front and Rear Cleats
• Heated Driver Seat (if applicable - don’t laugh these are great)
• Driver Booster Seat (for shorter drivers - usually built in)
• Additional Jump Seats (if applicable)
• Bow Filler Cushions (if applicable - levels the seating/playpen area upfront)
• Stereo, Tower Speakers, Amps, etc.
• Stereo Remotes/Controls in Convenient Locations (for passengers, driver, transom)
• Fade F/R Stereo (ability to shut the inside speakers off and just use tower speakers)
• Removable/Stowable Cockpit Table (eating and entertaining)
• Trailer ‘Boat Buddy’ (self locking trailer pin - autohelper)
• Protective Step Guards for your Trailer Fenders and Paint (or use Gator Grip)
• Custom Boat Wrap - (literally lets you customize your boat graphics)

Minimum Items Needed For Your Boat and Trailer
• Spare Tire, Jack, and Lug Nut Wrench
• Fire Extinguisher
• 2 Oars (1 doesn’t always cut it if you really need to use them)
• Plenty of CGA life jackets (8-10 or more)
• 2 Throwable Cushions
• Orange Flag + 1 spare (Flag Buddy’s are great) www.flagbuddy.com
• Mirror - (a rear facing ski mirror for driver)
• 2-4 bumpers, 2-4 dock lines, and a few various lengths of bungee cords and rope
• Wakeboard and/or Water-Ski Equipment
• Ski Rope and Handle

Optional Items You May Want To Keep In Your Boat
• Basic Tools
• Small Hex Allen (comes with most wakeboards for fins and bindings)
• Needle Nose Pliers
• Phillips & Flat Screwdriver
• Adjustable Crescent Wrench ¼” to at least ¾” - or the following 2 items:
• Fixed 9/16 crescent wrench - fits most drain plugs
• ½” or 13mm socket or crescent wrench - fits most battery connections
• Pocket Knife
• Duct Tape (small roll)
• Magic Eraser (for minor vinyl and seat marks and/or touchups)
• 6-8 Zip Ties
• Spare Wakeboard Fins and/or parts
• 1-2 Spare Containers of Oil, and an Oil Funnel
• First Aid Kit: (include extra Ziplocks and Band aids)
• Goggles (for looking under the boat and finding items that fall in water)
• 12V Toy Air Pump (for blowing up inflatable toys)
• Jumper Cables
• Binoculars
• Flare / Flare Gun (Coastal/Lake Powell/Big Lakes)
• 2-3 Nightsticks (Glow Sticks)
• 1 Spare Ski Rope and Handle
• Boat Tow Rope (preferably a non-ski or stretch, floating rope)
• Spare Propeller and Prop Puller Kit www.acmemarine.com 
• Anchor and Anchor Buddy (stretchable anchor and rope)
• Fake-a-Lake (garden hose hookup so you can run your boat out of water)
• 12V Car/Vehicle Vacuum
• Sun Block, Suntan Lotion, Chapstick
• Misc Items: Bottle Opener, Plastic Utensils, Cups, Paper Towels, Paper Plates, Baby  Wipes, Bleach Cloths, Garbage Bags, Ziplock Bags, Febreeze, 303, Vinegar and Water (Mixed 4 to 1) With Sprayer
• Bullhorn and/or Whistle

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