Build
Your Own Wakeboard Racks
Do
It Yourself Board Rack
For as little as $50.00
By Steve Jones
 
Before
After
Construction
Materials Needed
3 - 2'x4'x10' - $4.00 each
10 - ¾" x 48" long wood dowels $3.00 each
1 Box of #6x3" wood screws (Phillips head) $8.00
Optional
Construction Materials
Wood waterproof sealer - optional $12.00
Paintbrush - optional
Newspaper or cardboard - at least 2'x5'- optional
Recommended
Tools
How to Build Your Own Board Racks - Figure
A to use as a guide/blueprint but remember, this is only a template to get you started. The spaces in between racks and the materials you use can be anything you want them to be.
Electric Saw
Electric Drill / Screwdriver
Precision Drill Guide (ACCU - $30.00 at Home Depot)
¾ Spade bit (wood boring drill bit)
Phillips head #3 screwdriver bit
Eye protection glasses
12' + measuring tape
Wood Glue
Masking or Duct Tape
Sharpie - fine point
How
To - Step by Step
Step 1: Optional step; coat all the 2'x4's and wooden
dowels with a water sealant. Allow all parts to dry for 24
hours. (1 hour to complete)
(See Pictures A and B)
Picture
A Picture
B
Step
2: Using eye protection and an electric saw, trim two
of the 2'x4's to exactly 8' feet in length. (5 minutes to
complete)
Step
3:
Using eye protection, cut the third 2'x4' into 3 lengths of
exactly 40" inches each. (Or if you would like, cut three,
12" inch lengths, for a more narrow rack.) These will
be used later for the three cross sections. 40" inches
in length will accommodate wider stances on most wake and
snowboards, allowing the bindings to rest in-between the wooden
dowels. 12" inches will allow the bindings to rest outside
of the dowels, similar to the wakeboard racks on most boats.
(5 minutes to complete)
Step
4:
Using eye protection, cut the wooden dowels into six, 18"
inch sections, and twenty-four, 12" inch sections. For
faster cutting, stretch out the measuring tape and make hash
marks in the appropriate spots. (20 minutes to complete)
Step
5:
Using a sharpie, mark (dot) the 2'x4's exactly where you will
start to drill each hole later on. This is where you will
glue the dowels into place in Step 7. (15 minutes to complete)
(See Picture C)
Picture
C
A)
Stretch out the measuring tape over the entire length of the
2'x4', and place one edge in the middle to ensure your marks
will be centered for the entire length. Measure continuously
and exactly with no gaps or spaces. All measurements are from
one mark (dot) to the next, exactly.
B)
These are the measurements I used; exactly 8" from the
bottom, then exactly 1-3/4 between each wake / snowboard rack,
and exactly 15"inches between each set of racks. My only
exception was to leave 3-1/2 inches (instead of 1-3/4) between
the top set of racks to allow more room for wakesurf boards
to fit. Again, mark these measurements exactly and continuously
from one mark (dot) to the next. (Note: If you have wakeboards
with a lot of rocker, and are using a wider cross section
40" inches instead of 12" inches, use these measurements
instead: 5" inches from the bottom, 2 1/4" inches
between each rack, 15" between each set of racks, and
3 ½ between the top surfboard racks, to allow for the
rocker.
Step
6:
Using an electric drill, the precision drill guide, and the
¾ spade bit (wood boring drill bit), drill the ¾"
inch holes for your wooden dowels to fit into. The drill guide
isn't absolutely necessary (I built one rack by eyeballing
the angle) but the guide will help you keep the angle correct.
I used a 30-degree angle. Also, be sure to set the depth guide,
so you don't drill all of the way through the 2'x4'. This
will keep the glue in Step 7 from leaking through. Use a scrap
test piece to check depth. (30-60 minutes to complete)(See
Picture D)
Picture
D
Additional
Tips for Step 6
• Ensure you are drilling at the correct angle (up or
down) so that when you are done drilling the hole, your wooden
dowel will insert the correct way you desire. (You may need
to flip the 2'x4' end over end, and start from the top to
make it comfortable for you to drill, I did it this way.)
•Before drilling each hole, place the tip of the bit
exactly on the dot. Then slide the guide flat onto the 2'x4',
flush where you want it. The angle(s) should self adjust and
hold fairly steady as you start to drill each hole. (See Pictures
E and F)
•The angles are difficult to keep exact, don't expect
perfection!
Picture
E Picture
F
Step 7: Glue the ¾" wooden dowels into
the holes you drilled. Use enough glue inside each hole to
cover the dowels, but not so much that it spills out. Twist
the dowels as you insert them to ensure complete coverage,
and a solid set up. You can use masking or duct tape to make
minor corrections in angles, as each one dries into place.
Allow the glue to dry. (30 minutes to complete) (See Picture
G)
Picture
G
Step
8:
Construct the frame of your board rack by taking the three,
40" inch, cross-sections (or 12", whichever you
cut) and lay them flat on the ground. (10 minutes to complete).
A)
Place the two, 2'x4'x8's on top of the cross sections, perpendicular
to the cross sections. Line up one cross section at the top,
one at the bottom, and one somewhere in the middle, but closer
to what will be the top of your rack. Make the sides flush
and level.
B) Use 2-4 screws at each overlap to lock everything
into place. (Start with one screw at each corner to help make
minor adjustments as you screw the cross sections into place.)
Step
9:
Optional step; retouch dowel ends with water sealant or paint
the entire rack.
Step
10:
Secure to a stud in your wall with 2-3 screws each, on the
top and middle cross braces, and load up with boards. (10
minutes to complete) (See Picture "After")
After
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