Build Your Own Wakeboard Racks

Do It Yourself Board Rack
For as little as $50.00
By Steve Jones

  
               Before                              After

Construction Materials Needed
3 - 2'x4'x10' - $4.00 each
10 - ¾" x 48" long wood dowels $3.00 each
1 Box of #6x3" wood screws (Phillips head) $8.00

Optional Construction Materials
Wood waterproof sealer - optional $12.00
Paintbrush - optional
Newspaper or cardboard - at least 2'x5'- optional

Recommended Tools
How to Build Your Own Board Racks - Figure A to use as a guide/blueprint but remember, this is only a template to get you started. The spaces in between racks and the materials you use can be anything you want them to be.

Electric Saw
Electric Drill / Screwdriver
Precision Drill Guide (ACCU - $30.00 at Home Depot)
¾ Spade bit (wood boring drill bit)
Phillips head #3 screwdriver bit
Eye protection glasses
12' + measuring tape
Wood Glue
Masking or Duct Tape
Sharpie - fine point

How To - Step by Step
Step 1: Optional step; coat all the 2'x4's and wooden dowels with a water sealant. Allow all parts to dry for 24 hours. (1 hour to complete)
(See Pictures A and B)

 
            Picture A                         Picture B

Step 2: Using eye protection and an electric saw, trim two of the 2'x4's to exactly 8' feet in length. (5 minutes to complete)

Step 3: Using eye protection, cut the third 2'x4' into 3 lengths of exactly 40" inches each. (Or if you would like, cut three, 12" inch lengths, for a more narrow rack.) These will be used later for the three cross sections. 40" inches in length will accommodate wider stances on most wake and snowboards, allowing the bindings to rest in-between the wooden dowels. 12" inches will allow the bindings to rest outside of the dowels, similar to the wakeboard racks on most boats. (5 minutes to complete)

Step 4: Using eye protection, cut the wooden dowels into six, 18" inch sections, and twenty-four, 12" inch sections. For faster cutting, stretch out the measuring tape and make hash marks in the appropriate spots. (20 minutes to complete)

Step 5: Using a sharpie, mark (dot) the 2'x4's exactly where you will start to drill each hole later on. This is where you will glue the dowels into place in Step 7. (15 minutes to complete) (See Picture C)


           Picture C

A) Stretch out the measuring tape over the entire length of the 2'x4', and place one edge in the middle to ensure your marks will be centered for the entire length. Measure continuously and exactly with no gaps or spaces. All measurements are from one mark (dot) to the next, exactly.

B) These are the measurements I used; exactly 8" from the bottom, then exactly 1-3/4 between each wake / snowboard rack, and exactly 15"inches between each set of racks. My only exception was to leave 3-1/2 inches (instead of 1-3/4) between the top set of racks to allow more room for wakesurf boards to fit. Again, mark these measurements exactly and continuously from one mark (dot) to the next. (Note: If you have wakeboards with a lot of rocker, and are using a wider cross section 40" inches instead of 12" inches, use these measurements instead: 5" inches from the bottom, 2 1/4" inches between each rack, 15" between each set of racks, and 3 ½ between the top surfboard racks, to allow for the rocker.

Step 6: Using an electric drill, the precision drill guide, and the ¾ spade bit (wood boring drill bit), drill the ¾" inch holes for your wooden dowels to fit into. The drill guide isn't absolutely necessary (I built one rack by eyeballing the angle) but the guide will help you keep the angle correct. I used a 30-degree angle. Also, be sure to set the depth guide, so you don't drill all of the way through the 2'x4'. This will keep the glue in Step 7 from leaking through. Use a scrap test piece to check depth. (30-60 minutes to complete)(See Picture D)

         
Picture D

Additional Tips for Step 6
• Ensure you are drilling at the correct angle (up or down) so that when you are done drilling the hole, your wooden dowel will insert the correct way you desire. (You may need to flip the 2'x4' end over end, and start from the top to make it comfortable for you to drill, I did it this way.)
•Before drilling each hole, place the tip of the bit exactly on the dot. Then slide the guide flat onto the 2'x4', flush where you want it. The angle(s) should self adjust and hold fairly steady as you start to drill each hole. (See Pictures E and F)
•The angles are difficult to keep exact, don't expect perfection!
 
         
 Picture E                          Picture F

Step 7: Glue the ¾" wooden dowels into the holes you drilled. Use enough glue inside each hole to cover the dowels, but not so much that it spills out. Twist the dowels as you insert them to ensure complete coverage, and a solid set up. You can use masking or duct tape to make minor corrections in angles, as each one dries into place. Allow the glue to dry. (30 minutes to complete) (See Picture G)

         
Picture G

Step 8: Construct the frame of your board rack by taking the three, 40" inch, cross-sections (or 12", whichever you cut) and lay them flat on the ground. (10 minutes to complete).

A) Place the two, 2'x4'x8's on top of the cross sections, perpendicular to the cross sections. Line up one cross section at the top, one at the bottom, and one somewhere in the middle, but closer to what will be the top of your rack. Make the sides flush and level.
B) Use 2-4 screws at each overlap to lock everything into place. (Start with one screw at each corner to help make minor adjustments as you screw the cross sections into place.)

Step 9: Optional step; retouch dowel ends with water sealant or paint the entire rack.

Step 10: Secure to a stud in your wall with 2-3 screws each, on the top and middle cross braces, and load up with boards. (10 minutes to complete) (See Picture "After")


              After

 

 

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